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 So you want to breed your Husky..

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Jennet&Embry
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Female Join date : 2010-09-15
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PostSubject: So you want to breed your Husky..   Fri Jan 20, 2012 1:07 am

I wrote this up for another forum, thought I'd share it here too..

If You Are Breeding Intentionally

Eyes
Most breeds require eye checks of some sort, for a variety of problems. These include, but are not limited to problems such as
Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA). This disease eventually causes total blindness. In some breeds the onset is quick, before the dog is two or three. In others, the onset is much later, when the dog is four to eight years old (and may have already been bred). Irish Setters have a test available that can detect carriers and affected dogs; other breeds do not have this recourse. It appears to be a simple autosonomal recessive, but the late onset complicates breeding programs. If a dog is affected, then both parents are either carriers or also affected.
Retinal Dysplasia. Causes eventual blindness. This is believed to be hereditary. Some dogs can be detected with this condition in puppy hood, but carriers cannot be identified until they produce such puppies.
Collie Eye Anomaly (CEA). This affects the collie breeds (bearded, border, rough, smooth) as well as some closely related ones. This condition has varying degrees of severity from hardly affected to blind; the problem is that this disease is inherited and two hardly affected dogs may easliy produce a severely affected dog.
Cataracts. There are many forms and causes for cataracts, but some forms, such as juvenile cataracts, are inherited and such dogs should not be bred.
Entropion, Ectropion: These are conditions in which the eyelids turn in or out, causing various problems and often pain for the dog.
The Canine Eye Registry Foundation (CERF) in the USA registers dogs that are found to be clear of eye problems by a board certified (AVCO) veterinarian. Dogs need to be cleared yearly as there are some types of eye problems that show up later in life.
Hip and joints
There are a variety of joint problems found in most breeds. Toy breeds can have joint problems too; just because your breed is smaller doesn't mean you can figure you are free of hip dysplasia and be done with it. There are several problems that specifically affect smaller dogs!
Hip dysplasia is probably the best known problem. This is a malformation or deterioration of the hip joint, so that the socket it sits in is too shallow to secure the head of the femur. As the condition progresses, arthritic changes begin to destroy the protective cartilage and the dog may experience severe pain if the condition is bad enough. Some dogs are asymptomatic, but still should not be bred. This condition primarily affects the medium-to-large breeds, but smaller breeds have been known to be affected, for example Cocker Spaniels and Shetland Sheepdogs can have this problem. To make sure your dog is free of hip dysplasia, you need to have the hips radiographed and then obtain an expert analysis of the xrays. Your vet isn't necessarily the one to do this! In the US, you would mail the xrays to the Orthopedic Foundation of Animals and wait several weeks for their evaluation. In Canada, Europe and Britain, there are equivalent programs, but all differ in the type of certification and age at which they will certify; some organizations certify after one year of age, others certify after two years of age.
Osteochondrosis Dessicans (OCD) is an elbow joint problem. A bone spur or a flake wears away at the joint which becomes stiff and painful. Xray evaluations of these joints are also needed. Many breeds that are prone to hip dysplasia may also have OCD.
Patellar Luxation is a problem affecting the kneecaps. Smaller dogs are more prone to this problem than larger ones are. The kneecap will slide out of place and lock the leg straight. Diagnosis is fairly straightforward and surgery can correct the problem, but no dog with patellar luxation should be bred as this is also an hereditary condition.
There are a few other types of problems, affecting other joints like the hocks, or affecting the spine, that you should be aware of in some breeds. This is only an overview to give you an idea of what kinds of problems are out there. Remember that joint problems, even if not hereditary, may make it problematic for a bitch to be bred. Pregnancy is hard on the joints and on the body in general and if she isn't in the best of physical health, it is much kinder not to breed her.

Other things to check for
In some breeds, deafness is a potential problem. Puppies at risk should be BAER tested and any that fail should be neutered.
Heart conditions in many breeds must be checked for. Subaortic stenosis (SAS), other malformations of the heart or valves.
Hemophilia type of problems, e.g., von Willebrand's disease and others.
Malabsorptive syndromes, digestive problems.
Epilepsy.
Allergies.
Incorrect temperament for breed.
Finally, remember that not only the potential dam but also the sire must be checked for all the things appropriate for their breed and particular bloodlines.

Medical Checks before Breeding
You must make sure the bitch and the stud both are free from brucellosis before breeding them. Brucellosis causes eventual sterility in both sexes (sometimes non-obviously) and can cause a litter of puppies to be aborted or die shortly after birth. In addition, brucellosis is on occasion transmissible to humans via the urine or feces of an affected dog. Between dogs, it is most commonly passed in sexual intercourse, although an entire kennel can be infected through contact with secretions. The sire should be in excellent general health. The dam must be in good health, to withstand the stresses and rigors of a pregnancy. They must both be up to date on their vaccinations.

Temperament
Never breed any animal that has temperament problems. In particular, this has been the cause of the degeneration of many breed's general temperament: Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers, and so on. If your animal is untrustworthy around people, overly aggressive to people, excitable, or is a fear-biter, do not breed it. If it is shy or submissive, don't breed it. Look for happy, confident and obedient animals, and consider carefully the particular temperament requirements for your dog's breed. There are a variety of tests to indicate a dog's temperament. Many of the working breeds have a temperament test (for example, the Doberman's WAC test) for their breed. AKC has a Canine Good Citizen test (open to all dogs) that gives some indication of the dog's temperament (and, yes, training). Therapy Dogs International and other Therapy Dog clubs have temperament testing that does try to separate out actual temperament from training. Obedience titles can be (but are not necessarily) an indication of good temperament.

Pedigree Research
You must carefully consider each dog's pedigree for compatibility. Try to select strengths to offset weaknesses. Do not allow your bitch to be bred to an unsuitable dog, and conversely, be picky about the bitches you allow your dog to breed. This phase alone requires considerable research to find a suitable candidate, and you should definitely work closely with a knowledgeable person, ideally the breeder of your dog. Simply because two dogs "look good" or even *are* good does not mean that they necessarily complement each other: suppose they are both carriers for the same disease? Suppose they both have a tendency to overbites or other disqualifying faults? Be honest with yourself. If your dog is not a good representation of its breed, do not let it reproduce. It is much easier to improve a few faults than to try and get excellent pups with a mediocre dog. Check the breed standard for your dog and ask a knowledgeable person for their evaluation of your dog.

We'll return the the importance of scrutinizing a pedigree in the genetics section below.

Frequency of Breeding
Ideally, a bitch should only be bred every other year and she should not be bred much before two years of age. The season closest to the second birthday is a good one to start with; certainly no earlier than this. In some breeds, you may need to wait one more season before beginning. By this time, she is better prepared mentally for having puppies than she would have been with her first few seasons. Her physical growth is complete and pregnancy at this point won't endanger her health, provided that she is healthy to begin with. In breeds with Hip Dysplasia, many people wait until after two years of age so that the parents can be certified; however if you have sent in xrays to OFA for preliminary evaluation and they came back as fine, many breeders consider it safe enough to then breed on the season closest to the second year, which can wind up being before the bitch is actually old enough to be certified. (And when the bitch is old enough, she is, of course, duly certified.) But the preliminary xrays must be examined by OFA, not by a local veterinarian. There are many dysplastic dogs out there that had vets look at their xrays and pronounce them "wonderful."

It's important, however, to keep the frequency of breeding low. Even at maximum, you want to allow at least one unbred season between breedings. This allows your bitch to rest and regain her strength. A bitch that whelps too often will produce weaker puppies more likely to die, and the repeated pregnancies are pretty rough on her, too.

For dogs, they should definitely have all their certifications necessary. For many breeds this means that they should be over two years old. Since a dog can be bred at any time, unlike bitches, waiting for two years is not a problem, whereas a bitch often has a season just before two years of age and then has to wait until 2.5 or three which sometimes presents problems in trying to time her litters. But this does not apply to a stud dog, so he should definitely have all of his checks and certifications before being bred. Frequency is not generally a problem although some dogs have problems with sperm production if they breed once a day for several days. They need top-quality feeding and care if they are going to be bred often.

SOURCE: http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/breeding.html


Whelping Kit

Have your Vet on Call, and phone number handy.
Have your Vehicle filled with Gas.
If needed have a Babysitter on Call.
Ideally you will have a friend on call to assist you


Whelping Box with guard rails. (Big enough for Dam to Stretch out. (This will be puppies home for 2.5 to 3 weeks), then it will need to be Gradually expanded) At 2.5 weeks, a paper potty station needs to be added, and at about 4 weeks, a play area needs to be added. By 6 weeks they need room to run...

SUPPLIES:
Newspapers, Rags, and Paper towels.
Small Warm Box with heat pad for newborn pups.
(&/or back up hot water bottle for Vet travel)

Keep small towels in this box to warm them, some puppies need to be vigorously rubbed with a warm towel

Scissors to cut cord,
Hemostats to crimp cord
Un-waxed dental floss to tie cord if needed.
Surgical gloves and K-Y jelly.
Thermometer, Vaseline, book and pen.
Flashlight in case of power outage.
Ribbons if needed to identify puppies
Scale good quality
Preemie bottles and Canine Milk Replacer
NutriCal for Dam and some warm broth or canine milk.
Syringe to syringe fluids in Dams mouth (or spray bottle)
Foamy, sleeping bag, and pillow to camp beside whelp box
Calcium, either calsorb,
vanilla ice-cream, or tums.
Vanilla Ice cream is awesome between puppies, as it gives them hydration, glucose for energy, and a calcium boost, will help the parathyroid gland to release a hormone from her bones, to help with muscles and pushing.
SOURCE: http://www.dogbreedi...whelpingkit.htm


Dog Pregnancy Calender

Mating and Week One:
Dogs breed and there is a tie. Then wait 57 to 65 days.

The sperm and the eggs can live a few days. It can take a couple days for the sperm to reach the eggs. When it does fertilization takes place. All the eggs get fertilized the same time, regardless of the time of each tie.

Week Two:
Once fertilized eggs will travel to the uterus and implant.

Behavioral changes can take place. Your dog may become moody or more affectionate.

Week Three:
With the embryos implanted the eggs begin to grow and develop.

Your girl may begin to display breast development and mood swings.

Week Four:
Palpitation can detect Fetuses horns around day 28 with an ultrasound.

To protect the fetuses the uterus fills with fluid, and the palpitation can no longer be felt.

Offer your girl a little more food, as she could be hungrier.

Facial features and spines are starting to develop in the pups.

Week Five:
Your girls belly can look more swollen.

Serve smaller meals more often rather than big meals.

The sex organs begin to develop.

They start to look like puppies as the legs grow, and feet develop.

Week Six:
Your girl could start to be less comfortable, and could vomit on occasion.

There may be some clear fluid discharge from the vulva. This is normal.

Pigment develops as the pups keep growing.

Eyes and lids have formed and remain closed till 2 weeks after birth.

Week Seven:
Teats are bigger, and could contain colostrum.

Your girl could tire more easily, and look for a nesting box. Set up the whelp box.

The pups are developed well, and are growing daily. You may be able to detect movement of the pups.

Week Eight:
Your girl could begin to dig in her whelp box and rearrange her bedding. This is called nesting and is normal.

Offer your girl as much as she will eat several times a day rather than one huge meal.

Pups have fur and are more active in their crowded space. They move to get into position for birth.

Week Nine:
Puppies are ready to be born, you may not notice as much movement.

Your dam, may appear restless, and will be uncomfortable, and stretch out a lot.

Start taking rectal temperatures. Normal is 99.5 to 101. A drop to 97 - 98 on two readings an hour apart will mean the start of pre-labour.



SOURCE: http://www.dogbreedi...ncycalendar.htm


The Labor

Stage One of Labor:
During the first stage of labor the cervix begins to dilate and uterine contractions begin. These contractions are painful and perplexing to the dog. She will appear quite uncomfortable and restless - pacing, shivering and panting. She probably will not eat and she may even vomit. Some dogs whine persistently. Others occupy themselves building a nest. Uterine contractions, although occurring, are not as easy to see as in humans. This is the longest stage of labor. It generally lasts six to eighteen hours. By the end of this period the dog’s cervix will have completely dilated for the puppies to pass. During this period keep the mother’s environment quiet and calm. I usually shut them off in a darkened area such as the bathroom.
Stage Two of Labor:
During the second stage of labor, uterine contractions begin in force. As this stage progresses the placental water sacks break and a straw-colored fluid is passed. Placentas are expelled after each puppy or sporadically during labor. Pups usually appear every half-hour or so after ten to thirty minutes of forceful straining. As the pups deliver, the mother will lick the puppy clean and bite off the umbilical cord. It is important to let the mother do this, if she will, because through this process she bonds with her puppies and learns to recognize them as her own. The rough licking of the mother stimulates the puppies to breathe and improves their circulation. The mother will probably eat some of the afterbirths. If the bitch does not tear away the sac and lick the pups to stimulate respiration, the owner should tear the sac open, clear all fluid away from the pup's nose and mouth, and vigorously rub the pup to stimulate breathing.
It is not uncommon, however, for the mother to take rests during labor and up to four hours can pass between some puppies. If more than four hours have passed without a puppy and you are certain more puppies are present take the dog to a veterinary hospital. Also seek assistance if the mother strains forcefully for over an hour without producing another pup. If you see the rear legs of a puppy protruding from the dog’s vagina you can assist the mother by gently pulling the puppy in a downward and rearward arcing motion. You must do this very gently because puppies are fragile and easily hurt. It is normal for many puppies to be born rear feet first or breach. When a mother dog is stuck in incomplete labor the first thing I do is administer oxytocin and calcium to stimulate uterine contractions. If the puppies are too big to pass through the birth canal or the oxytocin fails to induce successful labor, I perform a cesarean section on the dog.

Stage Three of Labor:
The concept of a third stage of labor is borrowed from human labor terms. It is a very indistinct period in dogs. Once all the puppies have been born the dog enters this third stage of labor during which time the uterus contracts fully, expelling any remaining placenta, blood and fluid.

Midwifery:
After thirty-two days of pregnancy the mother’s appetite will begin to increase. She should begin to eat about twice as much as she used to. When the puppies come and she is producing milk, her food consumption should be about three times as much as it was before her pregnancy. Purchase a name brand puppy chow to feed her with during these periods. If you do so, there is no need to give her supplements of any kind. There is no need to restrict the mother’s normal exercise but intensive exercise or work training should be curtailed.

Around the forty-fifth day, bring the pet in to be examined by a veterinarian. At this time the vet will be able to palpate the puppies and give you an indication of how many to expect. If you need to know earlier, then have an ultrasound examination performed about the twenty-fifth day. Blood progesterone levels can be tested about day 34 to confirm pregnancy.

The puppies will be born still covered by their amniotic membrane. This membrane must be removed from the puppy’s face in order for it to breathe. Most momma dogs are very attentive to the newborn puppy and lick and tear the membrane off. If they are not or you just don’t have the patience to wait, assist the dog in doing this. Peel the membrane away and remove mucous from the puppy’s mouth and nose with a soft towel. Tie a piece of dental floss or thread around the umbilical cord about an inch from the puppy’s belly button and cut the cord distal to the knot.

Serious Problems:
If the mother fails to go into labor within twenty-four hours after her body temperature drops to below 100F you should take the dog to a veterinarian. Do this also if you have calculated that more than 69 days have passed since the dog was bred.

Some dogs will suffer milk failure or insufficient milk before their puppies are weaned. This occurs in older dogs as well as dogs that have another concurrent health problem such as eclampsia, mastitis or systemic disease. These dogs need to be taken directly to a veterinarian the puppies supplemented or raised by hand. Signs that milk is inadequate are thin or lean puppies that cry consistently suck objects around them (or each other) and do not sleep.

It is normal for the mother to run a low fever during the two days after giving birth. I become concerned if the fever is over 102.8, if the dog is drinking excessive water or if she is depressed. These may all be signs of a retained placenta (or puppy) or a uterine infection.
It is normal for the dog to have a vaginal discharge following birthing. This discharge normally has rusty reddish or greenish brown appearance. I become concerned when the discharge is pus-like or has a strong odor. This can also be a sign of retained placenta and uterine infection (metritis). Normal cleansing of the uterus can last as long as eight weeks.

Normal mother dogs are bright, alert and attentive to their puppies. She should have a ravenous appetite as she converts metabolites to milk. I become concerned if the mother shows any signs of listlessness or depression. She also needs to visit a veterinarian if she is not attentive to her puppies.

Check the mother’s milk flow. It should flow with only the slightest of finger pressure.

Eclampsia or Milk Fever:

Eclampsia is actually a glandular problem in which the parathyroid gland does not secrete sufficient calcium-releasing hormone. When it does occur, this problem happens just before or within 3-4 weeks after whelping. Milk fever is an acute, life-threatening condition. It is most common in small breeds with large litters. Mother dogs become disoriented, stiff, nervous and restless. They loose interest in her puppies. In severe cases they will have muscle spasms, seizures and be unable to walk. The mother may run a fever and have a rapid heart rate. This problem results from low blood calcium as the mother’s body prepares to produce calcium-rich milk. I treat it by administering intravenous 10% calcium gluconate at 0.25-0.75ml/pound/hour. Affected dogs return to normal in fifteen minutes or less. Then I either wean the puppies or place the mother on a calcium supplement for the remainder of their lactation. Giving calcium supplements during pregnancy is not helpful and may actually cause the problem to reoccur during future pregnancies.

Mastitis or Breast Infection:
The normal canine breasts of mother dogs are soft, warm and enlarged. They should never be red, hot, painful and hard. Hard painful breasts are signs of infection. Dogs with this condition are reluctant to let the puppies nurse and when they do little milk is produced. As soon as I identify a dog with this condition I remove the puppies and hand feed them. Hot packs on the affected breasts help draw down the infection. I place the mother dog on antibiotics and limit her water supply to dry up her milk as quickly as possible.

Hypoglycemia or Low Blood Sugar:
This condition is easily confused with eclampsia. It is primarily a problem in small breeds. The signs are disorientation, weakness, subnormal temperature and low blood sugar analysis. I treat it by administering intravenous dextrose solution. Recovery is very rapid. I often give some dextrose at the same time I treat with ntravenous calcium for eclampsia since the two problems often occur together.
Removing The Umbilical Cord If Mom Doesn't
Remove the amniotic membrane from your puppy if the mother hasn't done so in one to three minutes after birth
Cut the puppy's umbilical cord if the mother has not severed it with her teeth by tying a knot in the umbilical cord 1-inch away from the puppy's navel.
Tie another knot 1/4 inch above the first knot.
Cut between the two knots with clean scissors.
Dip the severed end that's attached to the puppy in providine solution.
SOURCE: http://www.ehow.com/...ical-cords.html

AFTER BIRTH/GROWING UP

What do I do to care for the newborn puppies?

The mother will spend most of her time with the puppies during the next few days. The puppies need to be kept warm and to nurse frequently; they should be checked every few hours to make certain that they are warm and well fed. The mother should be checked to make certain that she is producing adequate milk.

If the mother does not stay in the box, the puppies' temperatures must be monitored. If the puppies are cold, supplemental heating should be provided. During the first four days of life, the newborns' box should be maintained at 85º to 90ºF (29.4º to 32.2ºC). The temperature may gradually be decreased to 80ºF (26.7ºC) by the seventh to tenth day and to 72ºF (22.2ºC) by the end of the fourth week. If the litter is large, the temperature need not be as high. As puppies huddle together, their body heat provides additional warmth.

If the mother feels the puppies are in danger or if there is too much light, she may become anxious. Placing a sheet or cloth over most of the top of the box to obscure much of the light may resolve the problem. An enclosed box is also a solution. Some dogs, especially first-time mothers, are more anxious than others. Such dogs may attempt to hide their young, even from her guardian. Moving from place to place may continue and will endanger the puppies if they are placed in a cold or drafty location. Dogs with this behavior should be caged in a secluded area. This type of mother has also been known to kill her puppies as a means of protecting them from danger.


What are the signs that the puppies are not doing well and what do I do?

Puppies should eat or sleep 90% of the time during the first two weeks. If they are crying during or after eating, they are usually becoming ill or are not getting adequate milk. A newborn puppy is very susceptible to infections and can die within 24 hours. If excessive crying occurs, the mother and entire litter should be examined by a veterinarian promptly.

When the milk supply is inadequate, supplemental feeding one to three times per day is recommended and should be performed on any litter with 5+ puppies. There are several commercial formulae available that are made to supply the needs of puppies. They require no preparation other than warming. They should be warmed to 95º to 100ºF (35º to 37.8ºC) before feeding. Its temperature can be tested on one's forearm; it should be about the same as one's skin. An alternative is canned goats' milk that is available in most grocery stores. The commercial products have directions concerning feeding amounts. If the puppies are still nursing from their mother, the amounts recommended will be excessive. Generally, 1/3 to 1/2 of the listed amount should be the daily goal. Supplemental feeding may be continued until the puppies are old enough to eat puppy food.

If the mother does not produce milk or her milk becomes infected, the puppies will also cry. If this occurs, the entire litter could die within 24 to 48 hours. Total replacement feeding, using the mentioned products, or adopting the puppies to another nursing mother is usually necessary. If replacement feeding is chosen, the amounts of milk listed on the product should be fed. Puppies less than two weeks of age should be fed every 3-4 hours. Puppies 2-4 weeks of age do well with feedings every 6-8 hours. Weaning should begin at 3-4 weeks of age.

What should I expect during the puppies' first few weeks of life?

For the first month of life, puppies require very little care from the guardian because their mother will feed and care for them. They are born with their eyes closed, but they will open in 7 to 14 days. If swelling or bulging is noted under the eyelids, they should be opened gently. A cotton ball dampened with warm water may be used to assist opening the lids. If the swelling is due to infection, pus will exit the open eyelids and should be treated as prescribed by a veterinarian. If the eyes have not opened within 14 days of age, they should be opened by a veterinarian.

Puppies should be observed for their rate of growth. They should double their birth weight in about one week.

At two weeks of age, puppies should be alert and trying to stand. At three weeks, they generally try to climb out of their box. At four weeks, all of the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play.

Puppies should begin eating solid food about 3½ to 4½ weeks of age. Initially, one of the milk replacers or puppy food that has been soaked in water to make a gruel should be placed in a flat saucer. The puppies' noses should be dipped into it two or three times per day until they begin to lap; this usually takes 1-3 days. Next, canned or dry puppy food should be placed in the milk replacer or in water until it is soggy. As the puppies lap, they will also ingest the food. The amount of moisture should be decreased daily until they are eating the canned or dry food with little or no moisture added; this should occur by 4 to 6 weeks of age.


When should vaccinations begin?

Puppies are provided some immunity to canine diseases before and shortly after birth. The mother's antibodies cross the placenta and enter the puppies' circulation. Some antibodies are also provided in the mother's milk. These maternal antibodies protect the puppies against the diseases to which the mother is immune. This explains why is it desirable to booster the mother's vaccinations within a few months prior to breeding.

Although very protective, maternal antibodies last for only a few weeks; after this time, the puppy becomes susceptible to disease. The vaccination program should be started at about 6 to 8 weeks of age. Puppies should be vaccinated against distmper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza virus, parvovirus, coronavirus, and rabies. Other vaccines are also available for certain situations, and should be discussed at the time of the first visit for vaccinations.

Maternal antibodies are passed in the mother's milk only during the first 1-3 days after delivery. If, for any reason, the puppies do not nurse during this important period of time, their vaccinations should begin about 2 to 4 weeks of age, depending on likely disease exposure. A veterinarian can make specific recommendations for each particular situation.

Do all puppies have worms?

Intestinal parasites (worms) are common in puppies. Symptoms include general poor condition, chronic soft or bloody stools, loss of appetite, a pot-bellied appearance, loss of luster of the haircoat, and weight loss. Some parasites are transmitted from the mother to her offspring and others are carried by fleas. Some are transmitted through the stool of an infected dog. Very few of these parasites are visible in the stool, so their eggs must be detected by the veterinarian with a microscope.

A microscopic examination of the feces will reveal the eggs of most of these parasites. Generally this test should be performed at the time of the first vaccinations. It may be performed as early as three weeks of age if a parasite problem is suspected. Treatment is based on the type of parasites found although some veterinarians elect to treat all puppies because they know that fecal tests can be falsely negative. Your veterinarian should be consulted for specific recommendations for your puppies.


SOURCE: http://www.sniksnak....h/puppies2.html

Selling The Puppies

It is vitally important that when you sell your puppies you find the right home. Hopefully this will determine where they will spend the rest of their life, and you will want to ensure that the puppy will be happy in that environment.

As guidelines, you may wish to think about some of the following when making your decision:

Find out if the people who want to buy the puppy have done their "homework" on their chosen breed.
Try to meet the whole family, including any children if possible.
Ask potential owners if they have any other dogs / pets.
Find out whether the dog is wanted purely as a pet, or whether they may be interested in breeding at a later stage (you may have placed endorsements on the puppy's registration certificate and the new owners will need to agree to these in writing before or at the date of sale). The new owner may also want to compete at Kennel Club licensed events.
Do not mislead people regarding the dog’s characteristics and the care it requires (particularly of the coat). Incomplete information for the new owner may result in the puppy being returned to you, or being sold on.
Find out if the potential owner has the time and inclination to groom an adult dog (particularly long coated breeds).
Find out how much time they spend at home. It is not necessarily a bad thing if they are out all day, provided they can take the dog to work with them.
Find out more about where they live, for example do they have a fenced garden? Some breeders like to conduct a home check before selling a puppy (you could always ask for photographs if it is not possible for you to visit the house in person). Do not automatically rule out flat dwellers - as long as they are willing and able to walk the dog regularly they may be able to offer a suitable home. It can even be the case that the dog is better off as then it cannot just be put out in the garden for exercise!
SOURCE: http://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/item/473


...hope this is helpful to anyone expecting a litter
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