Hello again,

We were able to get a couple of other pix with better lighting, but not as many angles as before. In the second pic, I am holding back the puppies jaw a little too much, but I'm just wondering if anyone can tell anything from these pix, as to how Phoenix looks, for show potential. We are hoping to do conformation, as well as a lot of other stuff?














Thank you.

angles on the stacked photos is poor to evaluate- appears straight in the rear, concerned short forearm. Short muzzle. is she from Livewire (Lauren House)?

Thank you Huskymom09. Yes, she is from Livewires/Lauren House. Her sire is Livewires Chemical Romance - Rome and and dam is Topaz Red Sky at Night - Sky.

I saw one of her older half-cousins and the owner said she looked just like Phoenix when she was a puppy and she apparently outgrew a lot of the little stuff. I wonder if that will be the case with Phoenix, or if that is even possible? I apologize for the poor quality of pix. This little girl does not like to hold still long enough to get a good stacking pic. She is 10 weeks old today, so I'm guessing new pix may not be very helpful? We took the three pix on top at 9 weeks, since her 8 week pix were hard to evaluate as well. I'm thinking that may throw off the evaluation? At any rate, I appreciate your input.

hello..
im new in this forum and i intereseting in this topic, i just got a new puppy and i want to know how she is in the senior eyes.

her name is Sheva. and im living in Indonesia.

here's some picture of her


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also why usually the champion siberian husky always get a dark eyes than a blue one? which is better?

She looks very straight in the front, but well angulated in the rear- right now she lacks balance
She lacks stop (forehead rise) and her ears are oversized and lacking fur coverage, but her eyes are a nice shape and set. She has nice pigment and I like her foot shape.

As far as CH eyes, we see a wide variety of eye colors in the ring. The number 2 Siberian Bitch US is blue eyed, the recent Best Of Winner's at the National Specialty is bi-eyed...eyes that are proper shape, set, and more importantly than either would be proven health cleared for multiple generations are what we should be concerning ourselves with.

thanks husky mom. the photo i posted is about more than 2 months old. i found her photo when she was on 2 months. maybe if you mind, you can help me again to identify my girl again, as you say that she is more difficult to identify that age.


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she is on the left bottom picture named candy. thankyou

There isn't any photos in there that are evaluation quality in that batch. Sorry-

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HuskyMom09 wrote:

There isn't any photos in there that are evaluation quality in that batch.  Sorry-

hi husky mom..

i have a plan to add another siberian husky, so i will breed my husky with the new one,and i dont want to break the conformation because of bad breeding (fault conformation), so what do you think about my husky? it is worth to breed or just add an another fault in this breed? she is 7 months old. thankyou before








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All of your pictures are taken at angles which make it very hard to evaluate her true conformation. You want to take your photos level with her and square to her body. Take the pictures directly perpendicular to her side and front and back to really get a solid evaluation.

More than just looks go into whether or not you should be breeding your dog though. What is her pedigree? The history of her parents? Were they show dogs? Race dogs? How is her genetic history? Her temperament? The temperament of the dog being bred to? I can't break down her conformation, others can do that, but I do know that in order to really answer if she is worth breeding there if a lot more information to consider. I understand you are in a different country? and what is acceptable breeding practices maybe different there, but here on the forum the general consensus is no breeding unless you race or show your dog professionally and successfully. And even then, perhaps not.

TwisterII wrote:

All of your pictures are taken at angles which make it very hard to evaluate her true conformation. You want to take your photos level with her and square to her body. Take the pictures directly perpendicular to her side and front and back to really get a solid evaluation.

More than just looks go into whether or not you should be breeding your dog though. What is her pedigree? The history of her parents? Were they show dogs? Race dogs? How is her genetic history? Her temperament? The temperament of the dog being bred to? I can't break down her conformation, others can do that, but I do know that in order to really answer if she is worth breeding there if a lot more information to consider. I understand you are in a different country? and what is acceptable breeding practices maybe different there, but here on the forum the general consensus is no breeding unless you race or show your dog professionally and successfully. And even then, perhaps not.  

she is too hard to take the picture while she is standing.. lol here its the best i can get. this photo taken when she was 4 months
Im living on indonesia, and its a common thing to breed any dogs whether it is correct conformation or not.. and i thought that if she has a bad conformation, i wont breed her..


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She appears very straight in the front, steep shoulder angles, out of balance front to rear as her rear angulation appears better. Cow hocked though. Weak pasterns (font). Nice shape to the eye, out of proportionally large ears, nicely set though. Top line appears to be nice.

However there is a lot more to consider when considering breeding. Since this would be a home breeding (you own both the male and female). First I would evaluate both structurally. I would also evaluate how the pedigrees mesh. Temperament must be considered in both. Proper health testing (OFA hip and eye) of both potential candidates PLUS there needs to be a family history of health testing. Siberians have a plethora of eye disorders that are heritable and can present as late as 4-6 years of age which is why eye tests must be performed annually on any breeding potential candidate. If there is no family history of health testing, do not breed her. If you do not understand functional structure and the Siberian Husky Breed Standard, do not breed.

Mishka is now 2 years and 2 months old. I don't think I will ever be able to get him to stack well. Thank goodness for squirrels. Lol.





We have started pulling activities and just wanted to make sure that there isn't anything majorly structurally wrong with him for those activities.

HuskyMom09 wrote:

She appears very straight in the front, steep shoulder angles, out of balance front to rear as her rear angulation appears better.  Cow hocked though.  Weak pasterns (font).  Nice shape to the eye, out of proportionally large ears, nicely set though.  Top line appears to be nice.  

However there is a lot more to consider when considering breeding.  Since this would be a home breeding (you own both the male and female).  First I would evaluate both structurally.  I would also evaluate how the pedigrees mesh.  Temperament must be considered in both.  Proper health testing (OFA hip and eye) of both potential candidates PLUS there needs to be a family history of health testing.  Siberians have a plethora of eye disorders that are heritable and can present as late as 4-6 years of age which is why eye tests must be performed annually on any breeding potential candidate.  If there is no family history of health testing, do not breed her.  If you do not understand functional structure and the Siberian Husky Breed Standard, do not breed.

thanks huskymom! her sire is son of one of famous kennel in USA (who surely have the proper health testing, and right now her dam is 7 years old. but i think they have no problem with hip and eyes.. what do you think about her cow hocked? because the last time i was checked her on x ray, the left rear hip bone is not bond/placed on the socket yet, but the opposite was ok. so while she is standing, i consider that she standing only on  3 legs, and the left rear hip is not proper her body weight.based on your experience, will she grow out of it? im doubt now to breed her. FYI now she is 7 months old

I can't really comment on the conformation aspect, but I will mention briefly that if you do plan to breed her that you don't do it any time soon, at least not before she's 2 years old. Seven months is WAY too soon to breed a dog. Has she even had her first heat yet?

capellalayla wrote:

I can't really comment on the conformation aspect, but I will mention briefly that if you do plan to breed her that you don't do it any time soon, at least not before she's 2 years old. Seven months is WAY too soon to breed a dog. Has she even had her first heat yet?

no she doesnt heat yet, and if i going to breed her, sure i will wait until she's 2 years. thanks for your advice.

Personally I wouldn't breed a dog with a front like that or a bad rear. Rears are easier to fix than fronts...providing they're not dysplastic...which if her femoral head does not sit well in her pelvic socket, even at 7 months, I'd be extremely concerned and would not make ANY plans until the hips were OFA'd and determined to be at MINIMUM Good.

Straight fronts, once you breed a straight front into your lines....might as well just plan on producing straight fronts. You'll pretty much never be able to breed that out and it is absolutely detrimental to the longevity of a working dog-

Also, remember, OFA hip and eye testing only cover about 10% of the total dog. There is a lot more to understand in breeding. Having OFA certified good hips does not mean a rear is assembled correctly, or that the dog has overall balance, or even that there are no other faults overall. It only means there is no sign of dysplasia.

Even as such, once you feel you understand your own dogs faults...then you have to be able to identify the faults of any and every potential stud dog. You do not want to double up on faults, which could exasperate the fault. You'd want a stud dog that would complement her structure and would blend well into her lines.

Hello all :]

I'm new to the forum. If anyone experienced with conformation could take a look at my girl Ziva, I'd really appreciate it! We're starting to dog scooter and I want to be aware of anything conformation-related that might make her more prone to injury.

She's 60lbs, but it's just length and height. She's not as bulky as builds that I've seen before.

Are you only interested in safety-related issues with her body, or conformation to the breed standard, generally?

I'm most interested in safety-related issues, but also curious about conformation to the breed standard. I know she's much too tall/large, but what else?

Thanks!

Well the most obvious beyond disqualifying weight is the snapped tail, which is a major fault.

Ohh right! That's only allowed for malamutes, right? Given her size and other things, I wouldn't be surprised if she were mixed with mal.

She appears to be standing slightly cow hocked in the rear, not surprising given the tail fault- however given her size, and I'm assuming you are interested in or participating in harness sports of some variety, watch her closely for overheating. Over sized/over standard Siberians tend to overheat faster and take longer to cool down.

HuskyMom09 wrote:

She appears to be standing slightly cow hocked in the rear, not surprising given the tail fault-  however given her size, and I'm assuming you are interested in or participating in harness sports of some variety, watch her closely for overheating.  Over sized/over standard Siberians tend to overheat faster and take longer to cool down.

Lani - that brings up a question I've been mulling over the past few weeks.  As you may know, Ami is a wooly - not hugely so through the body but most definitely a wooly and he is over standard in height - somewhere between 24.5 and 25.5 at the withers (as best I can measure the squirrelly beast).  He runs about 63 pounds.

I want to get him a backpack to carry his water on walks.  Husband is concerned that will make him too hot.  Even in the 30's Ami is panting on walks and always gravitates to the shady side of the road and prefers the woods.  

Do you think a backpack with 2 liters of water is too much for a wooly in spring/summer/fall.  Our walks are generally 3 miles at a time with hikes in the woods sometimes 5 miles.  We stop whenever Ami does or when we need a break - hills are always involved around here, usually 3-6% grade, though the gorge trails can be significant.

Since the woolie coat is less efficient in letting the heat out and cool air in I'd closely monitor activity especially with a pack. Which it sounds like you already do. You should be able to build up endurance and tolerance but with caution to ambient temperatures and humidity.