Where to look:
-The first place I would start is with your local, regional, or national Siberian Husky Club. The national Siberian Husky Clubs also have great websites. They have a list of breeders there that will be much more reputable than a simple google search. (In the USA: Siberian Husky Club of America; in Canada: Siberian Husky Club of Canada; in the UK: Siberian Husky Club of Great Britain).
-Another great place to look is your local area's club. Perhaps there's one in your province. In the states there's usually one per region (New England for example).
-Talk to your vet- ask if they know of any breeders in the area.
-Local or regional dog shows are a GREAT place to go meet breeders as well. Local mushing clubs will also be knowledgeable.
-You can also check the AKC classifieds for AKC Breeders of Merit (breeders who health test their dogs, work or show their dogs, and are in good standing with the AKC). Be careful looking at the other breeders listed on the AKC site. Requirements for AKC breeders are very sparse. Only the best (and what we would consider "reputable") will be listed as a "Breeder of Merit."What to look for:
1. Will the breeder provide health tests for both the dog and the bitch? You want OFA Certifications and eye tests done on both dogs. How old are the parents? Proper health tests can't be performed until the age of 2.
2. Ask the breeder why he/she decided to breed these two parents? What about the parents makes them excellent examples of the breed? Breeding should only be done to better the breed. If the breeder does not show or race their dogs, this is generally a red flag.
3. How many litters a year does he/she usually produce? A reputable breeder would produce one maybe two litters a year and ONLY ever one litter at a time and CERTAINLY not back-to-back on the same bitch.
4. The breeder should properly explain Siberian Huskies to you. They should ask how much exercise you can commit to your dog a day and ensure that you understand the difficulties with the breed. COMMUNICATION is the key here.
5. Spay/Neuter Contracts: The breeder should ensure that if you are not planning on showing, that you sign a spay/neuter contract. Any breeder who does not REQUIRE this is sketchy IMO.
6. The breeder should require that if for any reason you cannot care for your dog any longer OR if your pup comes down with any medical or genetic condition, that you return the dog to him/her. A good breeder stands by his/her dogs that he/she brought into the world.
7. Both parents should be registered with a Kennel Club (American Kennel Club (AKC), Candian Kennel Club (CKC), etc.) The Continental Kennel Club (ConnKC) and is a lot less picky about their registered dogs. I would be wary of ConnKC registrations and ask the breeder why they chose the ConnKC. The American Pet Registry (APR) is a bit fishy as well. This goes back to breeders breeding to better the breed and not just to make money or as a hobby. You want a breeder that shows or races and the Kennel Club should require this (ConnKC and APR do not).
8. The puppies should come with papers or at least the OPTION to have registration papers.
9. INBREEDING (within 2 generations)is generally frowned upon. Check the lineage of the parents.
10. How long do you have to wait to pick up the puppy? IMPORTANT socialization skills happen between the first 5-8 weeks of the puppy's life. In the USA, 8 weeks is the earliest I would pick up any puppy. In the UK, I know restrictions are lighter as I think 6 weeks is acceptable. I would hold off until 8 weeks as much as possible, but the breeder should NEVER give away a puppy before 6 weeks.What to pay:
It takes about $250 per puppy for vet checkups, shots, etc. This does not include testing for the mother, father, and accommodations/vet visits for the mother. IMO, anything between $250-850 USD is reasonable, however I've seen more. This is a personal decision. I would not pay a DIME if the breeder didn't meet all the criteria listed above.
Don't be afraid to ask questions! Generally, a breeder will appreciate that you are knowledgeable and doing your research. A breeder that is turned off by any of these questions isn't worth your time.Note:
These tips are formed from my experience with breeders of many breeds, not just the husky, people who have purchased from breeders and the experiences of good friends. These are my opinions and should not be taken as THE WORD. I welcome other opinions, but I think these guidelines are a great place to start your research
This thread is locked as it serves as a reference. For replies, please see Reputable Breeder Thread